port | Sudsy's Cellar

On November 1, 2025, the Ladies of the Knights of the Vine (KOV) gathered for an evening that beautifully intertwined culture, history, and wine. Drawing inspiration from Día de los Muertos, All Saints Day, and All Souls Day, we created a celebration that honored both the living and the legacy of women who helped shape the world of wine.

The Mexican tradition—Aztec in origin—welcomes departed loved ones through vibrant altars (ofrendas) adorned with flowers, candles, and personal mementos. Meanwhile, in Spain and Portugal, All Saints and All Souls Days are marked by quiet visits to cemeteries, where families honor ancestors with offerings and reflection.

Adding an educational twist, our tasting paid tribute to three remarkable women in wine who left enduring marks on their regions and the industry:

Doña Antónia Adelaide Ferreira (Portugal) – The matriarch of the Douro, who safeguarded Portuguese viticulture through the phylloxera crisis and championed quality Port.. A revered humanitarian, she remains a national symbol of perseverance and generosity. The new walking bridge under construction in Porto, slated to open in 2026, will be named in her honor.

Barbe-Nicole Clicquot Ponsardin (France) – Widowed young, she revolutionized Champagne with innovations that shaped modern sparkling wine. When Champagne was still cloudy, she devised a riddling table—drilling holes in her own kitchen table to hold bottles at an angle for gradual sediment removal.
Isabelle Simi (California) – Who took the helm of her family’s winery at age 18 after her father’s death, guiding it through Prohibition and laying the foundation for one of Sonoma’s most enduring legacies.

Their stories captivated the room, reminding us that while wine history often celebrates great men—Robert Mondavi and André Tchelistcheff among them—women, too, have defined the industry’s evolution. Sharing these stories brought color and depth to our evening, aligning with our fraternal mission to pair education with the pleasure of discovery.

The Tasting Journey

We began with three white wines—Campo Viejo Cava Brut Reserva, Broadbent Vinho Verde White Blend, and Emilio Moro El Zarzal Godello from Bierzo. Together, they offered a broad-brush introduction to the diversity of white wines across the Iberian Peninsula, from sparkling to still, from the Atlantic coast to Spain’s mountainous heartland. These selections represented a more modern interpretation of Iberian whites, which were historically crafted in a slightly oxidative style. Each wine was fresh, vibrant, and accessible—perfectly suited to the evening’s theme of renewal and remembrance. The Godello, in particular, became an instant favorite, introducing many of our guests to one of today’s true sommelier “sweetheart” wines.

Next, the ladies were introduced to the wines of Rioja—lovely, Tempranillo-based reds that showcased the region’s hallmark balance between fruit and oak. This flight was designed to illustrate Rioja’s traditional aging hierarchy while spotlighting the modern stylistic shift taking place across Spain. We began with a Crianza, bright and red-fruited with subtle vanilla tones, offering an approachable introduction to Rioja’s structure. The Reserva followed, displaying deeper concentration and the first hints of savory maturity—spice, leather, and tobacco weaving through the fruit. We concluded the flight with a Gran Reserva, a graceful reminder of how extended oak and bottle aging transform both flavor and texture. Its velvety mouthfeel and layered complexity showcased Rioja’s gift for evolution—proof that patience remains one of the region’s greatest virtues.

To provide contrast and perspective, we next explored a Ribera del Duero, also crafted from Tempranillo—known locally as Tinto Fino—but grown on a high plateau where the vines struggle in thin soils and limited water. The result was a wine of striking concentration and depth: dark fruit, firm tannins, and a structure that speaks to both altitude and adversity. This full-bodied expression of Tempranillo offered a powerful counterpoint to the elegance of Rioja. It’s a style I often recommend for Cabernet Sauvignon lovers who find Rioja too restrained—bold yet balanced, with a sense of energy that reflects the rugged beauty of Spain’s heartland.

Venturing back to Portugal, we tasted two still wines from the Douro Valley: the Quinta das Carvalhas Touriga Nacional Douro and the Quinta do Vale Meão Meandro Douro Tinto—the latter from the historic estate originally founded by our honoree, Doña Antónia Adelaide Ferreira. Both wines were beautifully crafted: bold yet refined, layered with dark fruit, spice, and the hallmark minerality of the Douro’s schist terraces. They served as a wonderful introduction to the region’s still wines, which are too often overshadowed by their fortified counterparts. These wines reminded us that the Douro’s legacy extends far beyond Port—into expressions that capture both the power of the land and the grace of its history.

We ended our tasting on a sweet—and savory—note: a dark chocolate brownie paired with a sea-salt cracker topped with a generous slab of Stilton, served alongside Graham’s Six Grapes Port. While I have a deep appreciation for the vintage Ports of the Douro, I selected this particular bottling for its balance of approachability, quality, and value. Consistently highly rated, it offers a touch of sweetness, full body, and rich fruit that make it an ideal introduction to the style—perfect for both newcomers and seasoned Port lovers alike.

An Evening to Remember

The ambiance brought our theme to life. A vibrant altar adorned with marigolds, candles, photos, and wine corks served as both centerpiece and conversation starter—a symbolic bridge between remembrance and celebration, and proof that wine carries history meant to be shared. The soft sounds of the night and crackling fire mingled with laughter, while candlelight cast a warm glow over tables draped in Iberian reds and golds.

Guests shared stories of their own mentors and memories, finding common ground in the resilience and joy that wine so often inspires. In true Knights of the Vine spirit, the evening blended education and fellowship, reflection and festivity. As glasses were raised one final time—to Doña Antónia, to Madame Clicquot, to Isabelle Simi, and to all women who have shaped the world of wine—we were reminded that legacy is not only something we inherit, but something we continue to create together.

The Wines of the Evening

Each bottling was selected not for prestige, but for craftsmanship, authenticity, and its ability to bring its region to life.

#	Wine	Region / Country	Grape(s)	Style & Tasting Impression
1	Campo Viejo Cava Brut Reserva NV	Catalunya, Spain	Macabeo, Xarel·lo, Parellada	Lively and refreshing with citrus and green apple; crisp bubbles and a clean finish.
2	Broadbent Vinho Verde White Blend 2023	Minho, Portugal	Loureiro, Trajadura, Arinto	Light-bodied and zesty with hints of lime and white flowers; a quintessential summer refresher.
3	Emilio Moro El Zarzal Godello 2021	Bierzo, Spain	Godello	Aromatic, textural, and elegant; ripe stone fruit balanced by minerality and freshness.
4	Bodegas LAN Crianza 2019	Rioja, Spain	Tempranillo	Bright red fruit and spice; approachable with fine tannins and a hint of vanilla.
5	Marqués de Cáceres Reserva 2017	Rioja, Spain	Tempranillo	Medium-bodied, complex, showing cherry, tobacco, and oak spice.
6	Cune Gran Reserva 2016	Rioja, Spain	Tempranillo	Elegant, mature, and layered; soft tannins with notes of dried fruit, cedar, and leather.
7	Protos Crianza 2019	Ribera del Duero, Spain	Tempranillo (Tinto Fino)	Full-bodied, dense, and structured; black fruit, mocha, and mineral tones.
8	Quinta das Carvalhas Touriga Nacional 2019	Douro Valley, Portugal	Touriga Nacional	Deep purple hue; floral aromatics with black fruit and spice, firm yet polished.
9	Quinta do Vale Meão Meandro Douro Tinto 2020	Douro Valley, Portugal	Field blend (Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, etc.)	Rich and layered with plum, graphite, and subtle oak; refined and long.
10	Graham’s Six Grapes Reserve Port NV	Douro Valley, Portugal	Traditional Port varieties	Generous and velvety; blackberry, cassis, and dark chocolate with a lingering sweetness.

As I am a first generation American with Hungarian heritage, I generally serve the highly sought after Tokaji wine, famous for its sweet, fruity, and acidic character. It is such an interesting grape! It is thick skinned but, as it ripens, the skins stretch and thin allowing the sunlight to penetrate, increasing the concentration of sugar. The sweetness level can vary depending upon how much residual sugar the winemaker decides to leave in the wine, how botrytized the grapes become and how the wine is ultimately blended. The sweetness is measured in ‘Puttonyos’ on a scale from 1 to 6 which is noted on the label. The most common is 5 Puttonyos.

Now, when I say ‘sweet’, I do not want you to think of sweet as in cloying, grocery store, birthday cake icing. It is a sweet wine, for sure, but with a backbone of acidity that makes the wine bright and lively on the palate with a hint of minerality. The elevated acidity is the key to a wine with great balance.

Stylistically, Tokaji shows apricot, orange zest and honey on a core of earth and minerality. I love to serve this with an Almond Tart topped with Mascarpone. It is a true gift from the vineyard. The Royal Tokaji Wine Company makes a splendid product, generally found in 500 ml bottles (vs. the standard 750 ml size), and the price ranges from $45 to $70 depending upon vintage.

Sauternes is another excellent choice. It too is a sweet wine, rich and honeyed on the palate and shows a bit more fruit than the Tokaji wine. Foggy condition in the region (Sauternes is south of the city of Bordeaux along the Garonne River) can create the perfect conditions for the growth of Botrytis, a mold that pulls water from the grapes, causing them to shrivel on the vine (think raisins) and gives the wine its signature richness. The grapes have concentrated sugars and flavors which result in sweet, intensely flavored wines.

Stylistically, Sauternes have notes of apricots, honey, and peaches but with a slightly nutty element. Foie gras is a classic match for these beautiful wines. While the most famous producer is Chateau Y’quem (price point of $200+ at the least expensive), Chateau Suduiraut is a favorite of mine and more modestly priced (generally in the $50 to $75 range depending upon vintage) and always seem to please.

Port is another all-time favorite and probably better recognized in the mainstream wine drinking community. It is crafted in varying styles and quality. The grapes are grown in steep vineyards that wind along the Douro River in Northern Portugal all the way East toward the Spanish border. Once the grapes are harvested, they are taken to the winery, placed in Lagares (large, shallow tanks made of granite) for fermenting and extraction. This is accomplished by the traditional process of ‘foot treading’ which extracts color, tannin, and flavors from the grapes. Using the human foot prevents the breaking of seeds which can impart bitter tannins into the must. This practice is still used by some premium and super premium port producers, although modern lagares have been created that use silicon feet to replicate the traditional human foot treading.

The wine is fortified which stops fermentation and it spends its first year in the Douro. The maturing wine is transported (once upon a time in boats on the Douro) to Vila Nova de Gaia across the river from Oporto for further ageing. Many styles of port are crafted from a simple Ruby or Tawny port (no vintage or age indication on the label) to high quality Vintage/Late Bottled Vintage (LBV) ports to Tawny Ports/Colheita with an indication of age and celebrating their oxidative life in the barrel.

This year, we will be enjoying a 20 Year Graham’s Tawny Port with our Christmas dessert. This tawny wine was aged in neutral wooden barrels called ‘pipes’ which allows controlled exposure to oxygen for a period of time so the alcohol integrates. The once fresh fruit aromas and flavors take on dried fruit characteristics and oxidative aromas, bringing enticing aromas and flavors of caramel and nuts to the wine.

While the bottle is labeled as aged for 20 years, this does not mean the minimum age of the wine in the blend is at least 20 years old. A 20 Year Tawny Port is made up of wines younger and older than the specified age. In reality, the wine is tasted by a panel within the IVDP (the governing body that supervises wine producers in the region) and this organization does a taste test to ensure the wine has characteristics indicative of a wine that age to be labeled as such.

Because I could not wait, I decided to taste the wine before serving at Christmas and as anticipated, this is a particularly good wine. Although port has high alcohol, the generous primary stone fruit aromas/flavors of plum and apricot and the tertiary elements of caramel, raisins, nuts, orange peel with a hint of cinnamon, are expressive and show incredibly good balance and an elevated palate intensity just short of pronounced. The acidity is juicy and complements the soft tannins ending in a complex ripe/dried fruit and smooth finish. I know this is going to be a very tasty accompaniment to the homemade Rum Bundt Cake!

Whatever you choose to serve at your Christmas dinner (and there are Sherry, Madeira, and Vin Doux Natural wines out there that I have not touched upon), have some fun in choosing, be adventuresome, and celebrate good food, family, and friends.

Here is to a wonderful and COVID-19-free 2021.

Merry Christmas!

Sudsy's Cellar

Expanding your knowledge of wine, one grape at a time

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