Spirits of the Vine – an Iberian wine celebration honoring women who shaped the world of wine…

On November 1, 2025, the Ladies of the Knights of the Vine (KOV) gathered for an evening that beautifully intertwined culture, history, and wine. Drawing inspiration from Día de los Muertos, All Saints Day, and All Souls Day, we created a celebration that honored both the living and the legacy of women who helped shape the world of wine.

The Mexican tradition—Aztec in origin—welcomes departed loved ones through vibrant altars (ofrendas) adorned with flowers, candles, and personal mementos. Meanwhile, in Spain and Portugal, All Saints and All Souls Days are marked by quiet visits to cemeteries, where families honor ancestors with offerings and reflection.

Adding an educational twist, our tasting paid tribute to three remarkable women in wine who left enduring marks on their regions and the industry:

  • Doña Antónia Adelaide Ferreira (Portugal) – The matriarch of the Douro, who safeguarded Portuguese viticulture through the phylloxera crisis and championed quality Port.. A revered humanitarian, she remains a national symbol of perseverance and generosity. The new walking bridge under construction in Porto, slated to open in 2026, will be named in her honor.
  • Barbe-Nicole Clicquot Ponsardin (France) – Widowed young, she revolutionized Champagne with innovations that shaped modern sparkling wine. When Champagne was still cloudy, she devised a riddling table—drilling holes in her own kitchen table to hold bottles at an angle for gradual sediment removal.
  • Isabelle Simi (California) – Who took the helm of her family’s winery at age 18 after her father’s death, guiding it through Prohibition and laying the foundation for one of Sonoma’s most enduring legacies.

Their stories captivated the room, reminding us that while wine history often celebrates great men—Robert Mondavi and André Tchelistcheff among them—women, too, have defined the industry’s evolution. Sharing these stories brought color and depth to our evening, aligning with our fraternal mission to pair education with the pleasure of discovery.


The Tasting Journey

We began with three white winesCampo Viejo Cava Brut Reserva, Broadbent Vinho Verde White Blend, and Emilio Moro El Zarzal Godello from Bierzo. Together, they offered a broad-brush introduction to the diversity of white wines across the Iberian Peninsula, from sparkling to still, from the Atlantic coast to Spain’s mountainous heartland. These selections represented a more modern interpretation of Iberian whites, which were historically crafted in a slightly oxidative style. Each wine was fresh, vibrant, and accessible—perfectly suited to the evening’s theme of renewal and remembrance. The Godello, in particular, became an instant favorite, introducing many of our guests to one of today’s true sommelier “sweetheart” wines.

Next, the ladies were introduced to the wines of Rioja—lovely, Tempranillo-based reds that showcased the region’s hallmark balance between fruit and oak. This flight was designed to illustrate Rioja’s traditional aging hierarchy while spotlighting the modern stylistic shift taking place across Spain. We began with a Crianza, bright and red-fruited with subtle vanilla tones, offering an approachable introduction to Rioja’s structure. The Reserva followed, displaying deeper concentration and the first hints of savory maturity—spice, leather, and tobacco weaving through the fruit. We concluded the flight with a Gran Reserva, a graceful reminder of how extended oak and bottle aging transform both flavor and texture. Its velvety mouthfeel and layered complexity showcased Rioja’s gift for evolution—proof that patience remains one of the region’s greatest virtues.

To provide contrast and perspective, we next explored a Ribera del Duero, also crafted from Tempranillo—known locally as Tinto Fino—but grown on a high plateau where the vines struggle in thin soils and limited water. The result was a wine of striking concentration and depth: dark fruit, firm tannins, and a structure that speaks to both altitude and adversity. This full-bodied expression of Tempranillo offered a powerful counterpoint to the elegance of Rioja. It’s a style I often recommend for Cabernet Sauvignon lovers who find Rioja too restrained—bold yet balanced, with a sense of energy that reflects the rugged beauty of Spain’s heartland.

Venturing back to Portugal, we tasted two still wines from the Douro Valley: the Quinta das Carvalhas Touriga Nacional Douro and the Quinta do Vale Meão Meandro Douro Tinto—the latter from the historic estate originally founded by our honoree, Doña Antónia Adelaide Ferreira. Both wines were beautifully crafted: bold yet refined, layered with dark fruit, spice, and the hallmark minerality of the Douro’s schist terraces. They served as a wonderful introduction to the region’s still wines, which are too often overshadowed by their fortified counterparts. These wines reminded us that the Douro’s legacy extends far beyond Port—into expressions that capture both the power of the land and the grace of its history.

We ended our tasting on a sweet—and savory—note: a dark chocolate brownie paired with a sea-salt cracker topped with a generous slab of Stilton, served alongside Graham’s Six Grapes Port. While I have a deep appreciation for the vintage Ports of the Douro, I selected this particular bottling for its balance of approachability, quality, and value. Consistently highly rated, it offers a touch of sweetness, full body, and rich fruit that make it an ideal introduction to the style—perfect for both newcomers and seasoned Port lovers alike.


An Evening to Remember

The ambiance brought our theme to life. A vibrant altar adorned with marigolds, candles, photos, and wine corks served as both centerpiece and conversation starter—a symbolic bridge between remembrance and celebration, and proof that wine carries history meant to be shared. The soft sounds of the night and crackling fire mingled with laughter, while candlelight cast a warm glow over tables draped in Iberian reds and golds.

Guests shared stories of their own mentors and memories, finding common ground in the resilience and joy that wine so often inspires. In true Knights of the Vine spirit, the evening blended education and fellowship, reflection and festivity. As glasses were raised one final time—to Doña Antónia, to Madame Clicquot, to Isabelle Simi, and to all women who have shaped the world of wine—we were reminded that legacy is not only something we inherit, but something we continue to create together.



The Wines of the Evening

Each bottling was selected not for prestige, but for craftsmanship, authenticity, and its ability to bring its region to life.

#WineRegion / CountryGrape(s)Style & Tasting Impression
1Campo Viejo Cava Brut Reserva NVCatalunya, SpainMacabeo, Xarel·lo, ParelladaLively and refreshing with citrus and green apple; crisp bubbles and a clean finish.
2Broadbent Vinho Verde White Blend 2023Minho, PortugalLoureiro, Trajadura, ArintoLight-bodied and zesty with hints of lime and white flowers; a quintessential summer refresher.
3Emilio Moro El Zarzal Godello 2021Bierzo, SpainGodelloAromatic, textural, and elegant; ripe stone fruit balanced by minerality and freshness.
4Bodegas LAN Crianza 2019Rioja, SpainTempranilloBright red fruit and spice; approachable with fine tannins and a hint of vanilla.
5Marqués de Cáceres Reserva 2017Rioja, SpainTempranilloMedium-bodied, complex, showing cherry, tobacco, and oak spice.
6Cune Gran Reserva 2016Rioja, SpainTempranilloElegant, mature, and layered; soft tannins with notes of dried fruit, cedar, and leather.
7Protos Crianza 2019Ribera del Duero, SpainTempranillo (Tinto Fino)Full-bodied, dense, and structured; black fruit, mocha, and mineral tones.
8Quinta das Carvalhas Touriga Nacional 2019Douro Valley, PortugalTouriga NacionalDeep purple hue; floral aromatics with black fruit and spice, firm yet polished.
9Quinta do Vale Meão Meandro Douro Tinto 2020Douro Valley, PortugalField blend (Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, etc.)Rich and layered with plum, graphite, and subtle oak; refined and long.
10Graham’s Six Grapes Reserve Port NVDouro Valley, PortugalTraditional Port varietiesGenerous and velvety; blackberry, cassis, and dark chocolate with a lingering sweetness.

The Evolution of Rioja Wine: Tradition Meets Innovation

Spain’s wine industry has undergone significant transformation, evolving from a land dominated by blended wines to one increasingly focused on single-vineyard expressions. While traditional Rioja has long been defined by its aging classifications—Crianza, Reserva, and Gran Reserva—some producers are carving a different path. Among them, R. Lopez de Heredia Viña Tondonia stands as a beacon of tradition, offering single-vineyard wines while maintaining the prestigious DOCa designation.

Rioja’s climate is unique within Spain. Unlike much of the country, which is dominated by Mediterranean warmth, Rioja benefits from a continental climate, bringing cooler temperatures and increased rainfall. This allows grapes to develop bright acidity, a hallmark of the region’s wines. The towering Cantabrian Mountains play a crucial role in defining Rioja’s terroir, trapping moisture and preventing hot Mediterranean influences from overwhelming the vineyards.

Rioja is divided into three subregions:

  • Rioja Alta (near Haro) – High altitude, producing wines with great acidity.
  • Rioja Alavesa – Slightly lower in elevation and a bit wetter.
  • Rioja Oriental – Warmer, with more Mediterranean influence, resulting in riper fruit and softer acidity.

Haro, the epicenter of Rioja’s wine culture, is home to some of Spain’s most iconic wineries, including Muga, CVNE, La Rioja Alta, and, of course, R. Lopez de Heredia. These wineries cluster in the historic Barrio de la Estación, where wines were historically shipped by rail to the rest of Spain and beyond. The town’s significance in Rioja winemaking history is unparalleled, housing some of the most renowned producers who have shaped the region’s legacy. A joy to visit!

Founded in the late 1800s, R. Lopez de Heredia has steadfastly adhered to time-honored winemaking techniques. Their estate includes the revered Viña Tondonia vineyard, a 100-hectare (250-acre) site uniquely positioned along the Ebro River. The river encircles the vineyard like a moat, providing natural protection and enhancing its microclimate. The name “Tondonia” itself means “round,” reflecting this natural geographical feature.

Unlike many modern Rioja producers who embrace stainless steel fermentation and new French oak, Lopez de Heredia remains committed to traditional methods:

  • Natural Fermentation – Utilizing indigenous yeasts present on the grapes and in the winery.
  • Aging in Old Barrels – In-house cooperage ensures quality control, and extended barrel aging imparts complex oxidative notes.
  • Use of Vine Clippings in Fermentation – Similar to Burgundian whole-cluster fermentation, this practice enhances tannic structure and depth while promoting the presence of natural yeasts in the fermentation process.

While Rioja is best known for its reds, the region also produces remarkable white wines. Lopez de Heredia’s Viña Tondonia Blanco is an extraordinary example, undergoing extended aging to develop rich, nutty, oxidative characteristics akin to Vin Jaune from Jura, traditional Sherry, and aged White Burgundy. Stored in the winery’s special cellar, bottles of each vintage are preserved, showcasing the longevity and evolution of these unique wines.

The winery’s commitment to sustainability is evident throughout their viticulture and winemaking practices:

  • No chemical treatments – They employ cover crops, composting, and manual vineyard work to maintain soil health.
  • Dry farming – Encourages deep root growth, ensuring resilience in drought conditions.
  • Minimal sulfur use – Their wines contain only 50 mg/L of SO2, significantly lower than the EU’s 200 mg/L limit.
  • Spiders as natural pest control – Instead of using chemical pesticides, they allow spiders to thrive in their cellars, reducing unwanted insects.
  • Aging Cellars with Natural Humidity and Temperature Control – Built in the late 1800s, their facilities are designed to naturally regulate conditions for optimal aging.
  • In-House Cooperage – Maintaining their own barrels ensures quality control and minimizes the need for external resources.
  • Lopez de Heredia does not release a Gran Reserva every vintage; only the finest years merit this designation. Among the most legendary vintages is the 1964 Gran Reserva, often hailed as one of the greatest wines of the 20th century. Tasting a 39-year-old bottle of this vintage was a pivotal moment in my personal wine journey—though at the time, I had no idea of its historical significance!

While Lopez de Heredia champions traditional Rioja, modern producers have embraced technological advancements, creating fresher, fruit-forward wines. Examples include:

  • Crianza Wines – Such as those from CVNE, Viña Real, and Muga, which use shorter aging and newer oak to highlight bright fruit flavors.
  • Use of Stainless Steel – Enhancing freshness and preserving varietal purity.
  • French Oak Aging – Many producers opt for French oak to appeal to international palates.

R. Lopez de Heredia Viña Tondonia exemplifies the power of tradition in an evolving wine landscape. Their commitment to time-honored techniques, single-vineyard expressions, and sustainable practices ensures that each bottle tells a story of Rioja’s rich history. Whether comparing their wines to modern counterparts or simply enjoying their beautifully aged releases, one thing is certain: Lopez de Heredia’s wines stand as a testament to the enduring legacy of Rioja.

Have you had the opportunity to taste R. Lopez de Heredia wine? I was able to visit the winery in September during crush to learn first-hand about this historic producer. The restrained alcohol level and the clarity and silky texture that extended aging creates in the wine is amazing. I encourage you to share your thoughts and experiences in the comments below!

What’s your ‘Wednesday’ wine?

People are always asking me what my favorite wine or grape varietal is.   That is an impossible question to answer when the world offers so many delicious and intriguing wines from incredibly historic places.  I enjoy drinking my way around the globe and, if the wine is sound and of good quality, tastes like the varietal(s) and is a good pairing with the food, I am happy.

However, I know people are looking for wine recommendations not an esoteric comment that makes me sound smug.  So, the following is a picture of the label of the wine we drank last night.  This is one of my favorite ‘Wednesday wines’, affordably priced (around $15), I have tasted many vintages and while I liked some vintages better than others, I have never been disappointed.

2014 Bodegas Ondarre Reserva Rioja

This wine is from the Rioja region of Spain and is a red blend of 85% Tempranillo (pronounced ‘temp-rah-nee-yo’), 10% Garnacha (Grenache) and 5% Mazuelo (Carignan which is generally grown in France).  It was aged in American and French oak barrels and, as it is a Reserva, it was aged for three years (probably in tanks with one of those years in oak).  On the palate, the wine is dry and fresh with ripe red berries, plum, dusty leather and finishes with a bit of soft vanilla spice.  The wine shows a medium to medium plus tannin structure but presents soft on the palate with just enough bright acidity and a long finish (which is surprising considering the price point).

I love Rioja wines and, while I was lucky to spend a few days in the mountain town of Laguardia in the La Rioja region of Spain, my brother-in-law, Tom Vonderbrink is my real Spanish hero.  Tom spent 40+ days on his first pilgrimage walking the Camino de Santiago – the Way of St. James.  The Bodegas Ondarre is located along ‘the way’ he walked, and the winery website pictures a pilgrim with a hiking pole walking through their vineyards.  I thought this would be a good ‘shout out’ to Tom along with a wish and a prayer that we all can get back to an adventurous life in the very near future. 

Tom, in the spirit of giving, family and friendship, I have shipped a bottle of this 2014 Bodegas Ondarre Riserva to you as a wonderful memory of your accomplishment (along with a bottle of 2016 Cune Rioja, just because).  Please enjoy and drink to all of our health and to all ‘essentials’ in this crazy world.

Santé

Sudsy

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