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Masterclass – 2010 Bordeaux – Left Bank

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With a line-up of six highly rated wines from the Left Bank of Bordeaux, we began the evening with an overview of Bordeaux appellations, the three main rivers, as well as the classifications.

The Bordeaux Region has many moving parts…

• When talking about the Left Bank, we mean the land on the West side of the Gironde Estuary as we follow the flow of this river to the North

• The Medoc is the most Northernly AOC

• The Haut-Medoc includes the Listrac and Moulis AOCs

• From North to South, the AOCs of importance:  St. Estephe, Pauillac, St. Julien, Margaux

• City of Bordeaux interrupts the Left Bank with Pessac-Leognan, Graves, and Sauternes South of the City

• Three rivers:  Gironde Estuary, Garonne (for navigation to the City of Bordeaux) and the Dordogne (St. Emilion) divide the areas

• Entre-Deux Mers = land between the seas – white wine production and inexpensive red wines

• Pomerol – no official classification of Pomerol wine but the region does contain one property widely held to be equivalent to a classified growth:  Chateau Petrus

• St. Emilion is a medieval, walled city on the Right Bank (Dordogne) – Merlot and Cabernet Franc – famous producer is Cheval Blanc

That’s a lot of information, but the map is simply to encourage the understanding of the area.

There are FIVE classifications in the Gironde, listed in order of seniority: 

• The 1855 classification – selections all came from the Médoc, with the single exception of Haut-Brion (which also ranked Sauternes and Barsac), ranking them from first to fifth growths – this ranking remains in place today

• The Graves classification – 16 Crus, all of which belong to the AOC Pessac-Léognan (1953)

• The Saint-Émilion classification – classified in 1955 and updated every 10 years or so (Premier Grand Cru Classe ‘A’ and ‘B’, Grand Cru Classe and Grand Cru)

• The Crus Bourgeois du Médoc classification – February 20, 2020, that includes 179 Crus Bourgeois, 56 Crus Bourgeois Supérieurs and 14 Crus Bourgeois Exceptionnels

• The Crus Artisans classification – grouping of small, family run estates (that have had lots of changes over time)

While this would seem to be enough info, we then moved on to look at the profile and style of each of the Left Bank appellations for clarity:

Saint-Estephe

Profile: Dark fruits like blackberry and plum, with earthy, savory notes, and sometimes a hint of pepper. These wines are often more austere in youth with a pronounced mineral character.

Style: Full-bodied and robust with firm tannins and a notable structure. Saint-Estèphe wines often require time to soften and develop, revealing complexity and depth as they age.

Tasting: 2010 Chateau Montrose, a 2nd growth from the 1855 Classification which was awarded 100 points by Vinous, 99 by The Wine Advocate, and 98 by Decanter. A blend of 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot. The wine was quite purple in the glass with aromas and flavors of pepper, licorice, black fruits, and a heady perfume aroma that lingered. With still grippy tannins and juicy acidity, the wine was balanced with a very long finish, complex, with all aspects not quite integrated indicating it is still in its youth and will continue to develop. Purchased in October 2023 for $299.

Pauillac

Profile: Black currant, cedar, graphite, tobacco, and sometimes hints of lead pencil and earth. Pauillac wines often display intense, concentrated fruit with powerful tannins.

Style: Known for its full-bodied, structured, and age-worthy  elegance and complexity with a long finish. Some of the most famous and prestigious wines come from Pauillac, such as Château Lafite Rothschild, Château Latour, and Château Mouton Rothschild.

Tasting: 2010 Chateau Lynch Bages, a 5th growth from the 1855 Classification which was awarded 98 points by Jeb Dunnick and James Suckling, 97 points by Robert Parker, and 96 points by the Wine Advocate. A blend of 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot. The wine was purple in the glass showing aromas and flavors of tobacco, red and black fruits, graphite, baking spice, cinnamon, and anise with a mouth-filling explosion of flavors across the palate. The tannins were fine grained with high acidity supporting the very long and expressive finish. The wine was well balanced, approachable now, but elements will continue to integrate over time. A complex and outstanding wine. Purchased in October 2023 for $229.

Saint-Julien

Profile: A harmonious blend of blackcurrant, black cherry, tobacco, and earthy notes with a touch of spice. Saint-Julien wines are known for their balance and finesse.

Style: Medium to full-bodied with a velvety texture and fine tannins. Saint-Julien is often described as having the power of Pauillac and the finesse of Margaux, making it a middle ground between the two in style.

Tasting: 2010 Chateau Leoville Barton, a 2nd growth from the 1855 Classification which was awarded 100 points by Wine Enthusiast, 97 points from James Suckling, and 96 points from The Wine Advocate. A blend of 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc. The wine was more ruby/purple with earthy elements of wet mulch, jam (red and black fruits), wet tobacco, licorice and white pepper. The acid was medium plus with fine tannins and restrained alcohol. The wine was balanced with a medium plus finish, complex but not yet fully integrated aromas and flavors with a bit of bitter phenolics on the finish. Purchased in October 2023 for $195.

Margaux

Profile: Floral notes of violet and rose, alongside red and black fruits like cherry and cassis. Margaux wines can also show hints of vanilla, cedar, and spice from oak aging.

Style: The most elegant and perfumed of the Médoc wines, Margaux wines are often described as silky and refined with a lighter body and softer tannins compared to other Left Bank wines. They are known for their aromatic complexity and charm.

Tasting: 2010 Pavillon Rouge, the 2nd bottling of Chateau Margaux, which was awarded 96 points by James Suckling, 94 points by Robert Parker, and 94 points by Wine Enthusiast. The blend is 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and 4% Petit Verdot. The wine was dark ruby in color with perfume of roses and violets, very intense as you brought air across your palate. Red plum and bright cherry, ripe fruits, cedar with silky tannins and juicy acidity. The wine was balanced with good integration and complexity of flavors, with a long finish that will keep evolving. An impressive wine. Purchased in October 2023 for $269.

Haut-Medoc

Profile: Varies by producer, but typically includes red and black fruits, herbs, and a touch of earth and oak. Haut-Médoc wines can show good balance and structure.

Style: Medium-bodied with a mix of fruit and earthiness, these wines are often well-structured with moderate tannins. Haut-Médoc encompasses several smaller appellations, and while they may not reach the heights of the more prestigious communes, they offer excellent value and aging potential.

Tasting: 2010 Chateau Cantemerle, a 5th growth from the 1855 Classification. Awarded 94 points by James Suckling. The wine is a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc, and 4% Petit Verdot. Purple color in the glass and opague. The aromas and flavors were more subdued as compared to others in the line-up, with notes of red and black berries and plums, a hint of phenolics from the oak used and a note of older wood. The acidity was medium plus and the tannins a tad on the coarse side. With a medium plus finish, the wine was balanced with restrained alcohol at 13%. The wine was sound, but perhaps would have been a bit more lively had it been open and consumed a year or two earlier. A solid producer from the Haut Medoc that always presents a very good wine, albeit not meant to age like a Chateau Montrose, etc., but priced at $65 when purchased in October 2023, and definitely the bargain in the line-up.

Pessac-Leognan

Profile: Red and black fruits, often with a smoky, earthy character, along with cedar, tobacco, and sometimes a note of graphite. The gravelly soils contribute to a distinctive mineral quality.

Style: Medium to full-bodied with a firm structure and refined tannins. Pessac-Léognan is known for producing wines with great complexity and depth, often showing a balance of fruit, earth, and minerality. Château Haut-Brion is a standout from this region.

Tasting: 2010 Chateau Haut Bailly, a Cru Classe from the Graves Classification. The wine was awarded 100 points from Decanter and 98 points from the Wine Advocate. The blend is 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Franc. The wine was quite purple in the glass with red and black fruits and notably ripe cherries, rich, with a added layer of ripe peaches, dried mulch, a whiff of smoke and graphite, with evident minerality. The acid was juicy, the wine complex and balanced with tannins presenting on the coarse side. So many interesting elements in this wine making it a real crowd pleaser. This wine should continue to age beautifully. Purchased in October 2023 for $195.

An impressive and informative tasting, allowing the comparison of wines from different appellations within Bordeaux, looking for and identifying the unique characteristics and styles, with the bonus of actually recognizing wines at different stages of maturity, while all coming from the fantastic 2010 vintage. A very good lesson in that vintage does matter.

A very fun and great learning session crafted for a Masterclass tasting of Bordeaux wines for the International Wine & Food Society.

Fraternal Wine Organizations have a lot to offer…

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The Knights of the Vine (KOV) Lake Tahoe hosted an innovative food and wine pairing event at the home of Commander Ernest Grossman in Truckee, California, on the snowy evening of May 4, 2024. Billy McCullough, former owner/chef of the Dragonfly Restaurant, crafted the menu, presenting creative cuisine with an Asian flair, and I had the honor of pairing the food with delicious wines for the evening.

Ernie, in his thoughtful and generous manner, gifted a couple of bottles of the 2003 Lafon-Rochet Bordeaux from his personal cellar for a mini-educational event. The 20 year old wine was kept at 60 degrees to help lift the acid and show the brightness of the fruit. Gratefully, we found the corks to be pliable with no evidence of leakage, so we carefully decanted to remove any sediment. Then, the deeply colored wine was poured into glasses to rest for several minutes and to allow any reductive aromas to blow off. It was indeed an old beauty in the glass. Deep ruby/purple core fading to a more garnet hue at the edges, an initial whiff of raisin faded to ripe black plum, blackberries, licorice, acid was medium plus and alcohol was still well integrated in the wine. The finish was surprisingly long. It was a delight and a great educational experience to show patience when opening old beauties!

Moving to the appetizer course, the Pommery Royal Champagne NV was amazing with the poke spoons and dumplings. The Champagne showed lemon chiffon and creme brulee aromas, very fresh lemony fruit, and the lightness of the sparkling wine on the palate was a perfect pairing for these amazing nibbles.

Next came the Cod…

A beautiful, creative presentation of perfectly prepared, almost blackened, cod smoked on cherry wood and presented with grilled vegetables and strawberry salsa. I paired this with a Chateauneuf du Pape drawing toward the smoked cherry wood and strawberry salsa, and of course, with consideration as to where it stood in the line-up of dishes for the evening. The Grenache element in this wine definitely sang to the smoked and fresh strawberry elements, and the Cod itself was meaty so the weight and texture also worked beautifully.

Tea smoke Quail came next, surrounded by Quail eggs, with mushroom stuffing completing the Quail, all on a bed of polenta. The Premier Cru Burgundy from Domaine Albert Morat absolutely sang with this dish, drawing to a pepper element in both the food and wine. This proved to be ‘off the charts’ amazing and I believe it was the favorite pairing of the evening.

To play to an educational moment, we had both the Chateauneuf and the Burgundy poured at the same time so that guests could try each wine with each of these two courses. It was fun to find that everyone liked the pairings presented, but appreciated the opportunity to try it themselves. We also talked about the depth of color of the Chateauneuf vs. the Burgundy, pointing out that often people think the darker the color the more aromatic the wine. However, while the Chateauneuf du Pape was ruby/purple and more intensely colored, that was due to the thick skinned grape varieties like the Syrah which is part of the blend. The Burgundy, on the other hand, while it was ruby/garnet but had less depth of color (typical of thin skinned varietals), was intensely aromatic, as much so as the Chateauneuf.

I generally skip dessert, but not tonight. This was an amazing combination of texture and flavors as well as candy for the eyes. All seamlessly paired with the delicious vintage port from Graham’s and most of us went back for more. While quite the hearty dessert, Chef Billy spoiled us all by bringing plates of additional ‘cookies’ to each table for our enjoyment, not to mention second pours of the lovely port wine.

It was a fantastic dinner as well as an educational opportunity, tainted only by a rouge spring snowstorm that kept many of our friends home due to road closures. While we we missed them dearly, this will be a dinner to remember as well as ‘snowageddon’ which came out to play when not invited.

If you love wine and food and want to surround yourselves with like thinking people, I encourage you to check out the Knights of the Vine (KOV) at: http://www.kov.org

There are many chapters around the country and more organizations to check out through the F.I.C.B. organization at: https://winebrotherhoods.org/en/

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Follow-up to the Bolgheri tasting in November…..

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The goal of this tasting event was to learn about the terms Toscana and Super Tuscan and the wines in those categories, what Superiore implies, to explore the Wine Classification system in place in the region, how IGT began so producers did not have to label their wines as simply table wine, as well as ‘meeting’ some of the players in this class. For the tasting experience, we moved from wines with Sangiovese in the blend to all Bordeaux varietals, and finally circled back to Tuscany, finishing with Antinori’s Tignanello. It was quite a journey.

While this was an ‘armchair’ adventure, the pictures of the beautiful countryside, the sea, amazing vineyards and castle like chateau, coupled with stories of some of the most iconic Italian producers that took their dream of crafting Bordeaux style wine from the windswept lands that touch the Tyrrhenian Sea into a cult reality, it proved to be a heady tasting.

To recap, the following are the wines tasted:

2019 Michele Satta Cavaliere (100% Sangiovese) $60

2020 Gaja Ca’ Marcanda Magori (65% Cabernet Franc, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot) $80

2020 Podere Grattamacco Superiore (65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 15% Sangiovese) $130

2020 Ornellaia Frescobaldi (50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Franc, 5% Petit Verdot) $270

2020 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia (85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc) $270

2020 Tua Rita Per Sempre Syrah (100% Syrah) $249

2019 Antinori Tignanello (80% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc) $180

To be clear, there was not a bad wine or a wine that any one or more attendee did not like. It was a journey through and an introduction to the various expressions of varietals found in this region, followed by a discussion of the success this area has enjoyed. 

For me, personally, it was my first taste of Sassicaia and I loved it. The fruit was ripe and the flavors lush, but not overblown. The purity of the fruit stood out and the finish was superb, the wine restrained and elegant, not fruit forward like a California Cabernet. I also enjoyed the Grattamacco as I love how the marriage of Bordeaux varietals and Sangiovese seem to bring two worlds together, giving the wine an uplift and added structure. And, I fell in love with Tignanello several years ago, so I am biased as I make sure I collect and cellar several bottles each vintage. The surprise was the 100% Syrah wine from Tua Rita. It was inky and rich and the first 100% Syrah bottling I have had from this region. A true standout!

They say that a given situation can form a lasting memory in your mind, and I would place this tasting in that category. Good people, great wines, fantastic food created to play well with the wines, and wonderful pictures and stories of this beautiful area along the sea. Seeing the vines curve along the hillsides and down to the sea, knowing that the marshy land was drained to make viticulture a reality (as happened in Bordeaux a long time ago), with iconic winemakers and their vision of what the area could become. Their wines have shown to be carefully crafted and have gained worldwide appeal and accolades. This was a tribute to their efforts!

While these are not most people’s ‘Wednesday night wines’, I encourage you to gather some friends and try a couple of these bottlings to learn about this exciting region! You will not be disappointed…

Bolgheri…tasting the stars of the Tuscan coast

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The creation of Bolgheri wines began quite recently in wine history with Sassicaia created in 1968, Tignanello in 1971, and Ornellaia’s first release in 1985. They were labeled ‘Super Tuscans’ and introduced Bordeaux varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to the blend. French oak barrels were utilized where Slovenian Oak was the standard. Crafting wines using varietals not allowed, the wines could only be labelled ‘vino da tavola’ (table wines) as they did not comply with DOC rules that required a high percentage of Sangiovese. These ‘rebel’ vintners brought notoriety and fame to these wines and hence the creation of Super Tuscan wines which caught the attention of premium wine consumers, particularly in the international markets. With deep color, fruity characters, spice from French oak barriques, careful use of blending across Bordeaux varietals (which piggybacked on the reputation and success of Bordeaux wines), the Super Tuscans began to achieve fame and reputation across the globe. Today, these wines are sought after by collectors and fine wine merchants around the world.

Validation of the quality and reputation came in 1994 when Bolgheri was awarded its own DOC and, in 2013 Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC was created with Sassicaia the only wine produced in the appellation.

The ability to produce these highly reputable wines is, in large part, due to the growing environment. The Bolgheri region is located on the western coast of Tuscany, with a warm Mediterranean climate but with cooling influences from the sea at night. This results in a long growing season and fully ripe grapes. The region has elevation of up to 400m but the whole region benefits, regardless of altitude, from these cooling sea influences (diurnal range, retains acidity, slow ripening for higher concentration, creating intense flavors). Rain is sufficient to grow grapes and spread throughout the season, but irrigation is also allowed. Plantings are typically high density to increase competition and naturally reduce yields. Soils are diverse and rocky much like the Left Bank of Bordeaux.

Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC has perhaps the finest reputation of them all. It is a single estate (Tenuta San Guido), and the flagship wine is Sassicaia (with Ornellaia hailing from the property right next door). These wines have soared in reputation and stand alongside the most famous Chateaux of Bordeaux.

To experience this region, I’m leading a tasting of the following wines on November 19, 2023 for the Internal Wine & Food Society. The selected wines are as follows (and listed in the order to be tasted):

2019 Michele Satta Cavaliere (100% Sangiovese) $60

2020 Gaja Ca;Marcanda Magori (65% Cabernet Franc, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot) $80

2020 Podere Grattamacco Superiore (65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 15% Sangiovese) $130

2020 Ornellaia Frescobaldi (50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Franc, 5% Petit Verdot) $270

2020 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia (85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc) $270

2020 Tua Rita Per Sempre Syrah (100% Syrah) $249

2019 Antinori Tignanello (80% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc) $180

We will learn about the terms Toscana and Super Tuscan and what wines fit into that category as well as Superiore. We will explore the Wine Classification system in place, how IGT began so producers did not have to label their wines as simply table wine, the bottom rung of the Italian hierarchy, as well as some of the players in this class. We will move from wines with Sangiovese in the blend to all Bordeaux varietals, and finally circle back to Tuscany with Antinori’s Tignanello, a beautiful wine.

I’ll report back after the event with what thoughts and ideas we took away from this amazing line up of cult wines!

Does ‘vintage’ matter?

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I thoroughly enjoyed this 2009 Tronquoy-Lalande last evening.  The wine was inky in color thanks to the addition of Petit Verdot in this St. Estephe Bordeaux blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Tight at first, the nose opened up to black cherries, dark berries, tobacco with a hint of French roasted coffee and minerality.  The oak structure was present but soft and the oak was well integrated in the wine.  On the palate, it still had primary fruit flavors with good structure and soft tannins. The finish was long and all the elements described were evident in the finale.  A really good bottle of Left Bank Bordeaux!

The media touted 2009 as a great vintage just to turn around in 2010 and claim it as the better of the two.  The 2009 vintage had almost perfect weather and growing conditions producing wines that are a bit softer in tannin and more approachable in their youth.  The 2009 Tronquoy-Lalande from St. Estephe (at 10 years of age) was a good representation of the deliciousness of this vintage.  As for the 2010 vintage, the conditions were somewhat variable and although it is considered a classic vintage as well, the 2010 wines are more tannic and will take more time to soften and integrate.  I suspect some may lose their fruit before the transformation occurs.

So, does vintage matter?  Yes!  Maybe not if you are purchasing ‘Wednesday wines’ to enjoy with your pizza tonight, but certainly if you are investing your money in wines to hold for a while.  I consider ‘Wednesday wines’ to be good quality wine, ready to drink now and not intended to age.  For the cellar, I purchase classic examples of wines of good quality, not ready to drink now but to hold as these should improve with age…hopefully.

To borrow (and tweak) a line from Forrest Gump, ‘Wine is like a box of chocolates.  You never know what you’re going to get.”  It’s the journey that really counts and you can be sure you will always learn something and enjoy yourself along the way!

Santé

Sudsy