Tag Archives: cult wines

Follow-up to the Bolgheri tasting in November…..

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The goal of this tasting event was to learn about the terms Toscana and Super Tuscan and the wines in those categories, what Superiore implies, to explore the Wine Classification system in place in the region, how IGT began so producers did not have to label their wines as simply table wine, as well as ‘meeting’ some of the players in this class. For the tasting experience, we moved from wines with Sangiovese in the blend to all Bordeaux varietals, and finally circled back to Tuscany, finishing with Antinori’s Tignanello. It was quite a journey.

While this was an ‘armchair’ adventure, the pictures of the beautiful countryside, the sea, amazing vineyards and castle like chateau, coupled with stories of some of the most iconic Italian producers that took their dream of crafting Bordeaux style wine from the windswept lands that touch the Tyrrhenian Sea into a cult reality, it proved to be a heady tasting.

To recap, the following are the wines tasted:

2019 Michele Satta Cavaliere (100% Sangiovese) $60

2020 Gaja Ca’ Marcanda Magori (65% Cabernet Franc, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot) $80

2020 Podere Grattamacco Superiore (65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 15% Sangiovese) $130

2020 Ornellaia Frescobaldi (50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Franc, 5% Petit Verdot) $270

2020 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia (85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc) $270

2020 Tua Rita Per Sempre Syrah (100% Syrah) $249

2019 Antinori Tignanello (80% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc) $180

To be clear, there was not a bad wine or a wine that any one or more attendee did not like. It was a journey through and an introduction to the various expressions of varietals found in this region, followed by a discussion of the success this area has enjoyed. 

For me, personally, it was my first taste of Sassicaia and I loved it. The fruit was ripe and the flavors lush, but not overblown. The purity of the fruit stood out and the finish was superb, the wine restrained and elegant, not fruit forward like a California Cabernet. I also enjoyed the Grattamacco as I love how the marriage of Bordeaux varietals and Sangiovese seem to bring two worlds together, giving the wine an uplift and added structure. And, I fell in love with Tignanello several years ago, so I am biased as I make sure I collect and cellar several bottles each vintage. The surprise was the 100% Syrah wine from Tua Rita. It was inky and rich and the first 100% Syrah bottling I have had from this region. A true standout!

They say that a given situation can form a lasting memory in your mind, and I would place this tasting in that category. Good people, great wines, fantastic food created to play well with the wines, and wonderful pictures and stories of this beautiful area along the sea. Seeing the vines curve along the hillsides and down to the sea, knowing that the marshy land was drained to make viticulture a reality (as happened in Bordeaux a long time ago), with iconic winemakers and their vision of what the area could become. Their wines have shown to be carefully crafted and have gained worldwide appeal and accolades. This was a tribute to their efforts!

While these are not most people’s ‘Wednesday night wines’, I encourage you to gather some friends and try a couple of these bottlings to learn about this exciting region! You will not be disappointed…

Bolgheri…tasting the stars of the Tuscan coast

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The creation of Bolgheri wines began quite recently in wine history with Sassicaia created in 1968, Tignanello in 1971, and Ornellaia’s first release in 1985. They were labeled ‘Super Tuscans’ and introduced Bordeaux varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to the blend. French oak barrels were utilized where Slovenian Oak was the standard. Crafting wines using varietals not allowed, the wines could only be labelled ‘vino da tavola’ (table wines) as they did not comply with DOC rules that required a high percentage of Sangiovese. These ‘rebel’ vintners brought notoriety and fame to these wines and hence the creation of Super Tuscan wines which caught the attention of premium wine consumers, particularly in the international markets. With deep color, fruity characters, spice from French oak barriques, careful use of blending across Bordeaux varietals (which piggybacked on the reputation and success of Bordeaux wines), the Super Tuscans began to achieve fame and reputation across the globe. Today, these wines are sought after by collectors and fine wine merchants around the world.

Validation of the quality and reputation came in 1994 when Bolgheri was awarded its own DOC and, in 2013 Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC was created with Sassicaia the only wine produced in the appellation.

The ability to produce these highly reputable wines is, in large part, due to the growing environment. The Bolgheri region is located on the western coast of Tuscany, with a warm Mediterranean climate but with cooling influences from the sea at night. This results in a long growing season and fully ripe grapes. The region has elevation of up to 400m but the whole region benefits, regardless of altitude, from these cooling sea influences (diurnal range, retains acidity, slow ripening for higher concentration, creating intense flavors). Rain is sufficient to grow grapes and spread throughout the season, but irrigation is also allowed. Plantings are typically high density to increase competition and naturally reduce yields. Soils are diverse and rocky much like the Left Bank of Bordeaux.

Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC has perhaps the finest reputation of them all. It is a single estate (Tenuta San Guido), and the flagship wine is Sassicaia (with Ornellaia hailing from the property right next door). These wines have soared in reputation and stand alongside the most famous Chateaux of Bordeaux.

To experience this region, I’m leading a tasting of the following wines on November 19, 2023 for the Internal Wine & Food Society. The selected wines are as follows (and listed in the order to be tasted):

2019 Michele Satta Cavaliere (100% Sangiovese) $60

2020 Gaja Ca;Marcanda Magori (65% Cabernet Franc, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot) $80

2020 Podere Grattamacco Superiore (65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 15% Sangiovese) $130

2020 Ornellaia Frescobaldi (50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Franc, 5% Petit Verdot) $270

2020 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia (85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc) $270

2020 Tua Rita Per Sempre Syrah (100% Syrah) $249

2019 Antinori Tignanello (80% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc) $180

We will learn about the terms Toscana and Super Tuscan and what wines fit into that category as well as Superiore. We will explore the Wine Classification system in place, how IGT began so producers did not have to label their wines as simply table wine, the bottom rung of the Italian hierarchy, as well as some of the players in this class. We will move from wines with Sangiovese in the blend to all Bordeaux varietals, and finally circle back to Tuscany with Antinori’s Tignanello, a beautiful wine.

I’ll report back after the event with what thoughts and ideas we took away from this amazing line up of cult wines!