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What Petite Sirah Does to Cabernet—And Why It Matters

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“Cabernet Sauvignon is a soloist. So why do so many winemakers keep giving it backup singers?”



In the ever-competitive world of California wine, consistency is currency. With rising expectations from consumers and critics alike, wineries often seek to craft Cabernet Sauvignon wines that are plush, powerful, and polished—vintage after vintage. But in the pursuit of this stylistic consistency, an unlikely grape has become a quiet enabler: Petite Sirah.

Blended in small but influential amounts, Petite Sirah is frequently added to Cabernet to deepen color, round out texture, and stabilize structure. Yet in doing so, it may also be flattening acidity, muting fruit expression, and ultimately dulling the vibrant voice that great Cabernet is capable of singing.

This article explores what Petite Sirah does in the blend, how its use reflects a formulaic winemaking mindset, and why this quiet shift in cellar choices matters—for authenticity, terroir transparency, and the future of expressive wines.

The Quiet Power of Petite Sirah

Petite Sirah (a.k.a. Durif) is a thick-skinned, late-ripening varietal known for its deeply pigmented juice, high tannin content, and bold structure. While seldom bottled on its own in high-end blends, it is a favorite tool for winemakers looking to:
– Intensify color
– Boost tannin grip
– Round out mouthfeel
– Stabilize a wine’s profile

Yet these benefits come with trade-offs. When added to Cabernet—even in small amounts—Petite Sirah can:
– Mute bright red or cassis fruit
– Suppress varietal clarity
– Dampen perceived acidity
– Create a generalized ‘bigness’ rather than detailed expression

As one winemaker privately put it, “It’s the volume button, not the tuning knob.”

From Character to Consistency: The Rise of Formula Wine

In vertical tastings, one can often detect when a wine’s profile becomes more about replicating house style than reflecting vintage variation or vineyard nuance. It’s here that Petite Sirah plays its stealth role.

There are brands that frequently rely on blending components like Petite Sirah, Syrah, or even Zinfandel to maintain plush, rounded profiles. The goal? Appealing mouthfeel, saturated color, and a flavor profile that “delivers” reliably at the retail shelf.

This is the hallmark of what I call formula wine—a blend crafted to meet expectations, not challenge them. And while there’s no shame in making delicious, accessible wine, it raises the question: At what point does formula replace authenticity?

When Cabernet Speaks, Listen Closely

Cabernet Sauvignon, when grown in the right site and allowed to express itself, can be electrifying: lifted aromas of blackcurrant, graphite, tobacco leaf, and violets; vibrant acidity; age-worthy tannin structure. These are the hallmarks of expressive Cabernet—from Napa’s mountain vineyards to Paso’s limestone pockets to Bordeaux’s Left Bank.

But once you’ve tasted a site-pure, unembellished Cabernet, it becomes hard to ignore how muted some blends have become. That exhilarating brightness—what some call “the snap”—can disappear under a thick cloak of color, weight, and indistinct darkness.

I’ve personally tasted Cabernets from producers who add Petite Sirah that feel like flat soda—dense, heavy, and short on lift. The freshness is gone. The fruit is thick, not bright. And while the wine may impress in a tasting lineup, it rarely invites a second glass at the dinner table.

Who’s Doing It Differently: Site Over Style

Fortunately, not all Cabernet producers follow the formula. A growing number of winemakers are leaning into transparency over technique—choosing to let vineyard expression and vintage variation shine, even if that means sacrificing some polish or consistency.

Take producers like Corison in Napa Valley. Cathy Corison’s wines are resolutely varietal, often lower in alcohol, and proudly site-driven. Her Kronos Vineyard Cabernets taste like where they come from—gravelly soils just west of Highway 29, exposed to the diurnal shifts that preserve acidity and aromatic lift.

Ridge Vineyards, while more commonly associated with Zinfandel, produces Cabernets from sites like Monte Bello with admirable restraint, complexity, and no need to “flesh out” the wine with extraneous blending or high-octane stylization.

Producers like Smith-Madrone, Heitz Cellar, Keenan, and Dunn Vineyards offer Cabernets that maintain integrity to site and vintage. These wines resist manipulation, embracing structure, freshness, and varietal clarity—without needing to “supercharge” with Petite Sirah or overdone oak.

These producers understand something critical: that the best Cabernet doesn’t need to be louder—it needs to be clearer.

Perspective and Palate

Let’s be clear: wine is ultimately a beverage meant to be enjoyed, and there are many different palates to please. Styled wines absolutely have their place—especially for newer consumers or in restaurant programs, where reliability and approachability are often more important than vintage variation or site expression.

That said, in marketing their brands, some winemakers—particularly in regions like Paso Robles—blend in Syrah or Petite Sirah and present the resulting wines as superior-quality, classic, and ageworthy Cabernets, often described as exquisitely rich and elegant, capable of rivaling their famous French counterparts.

Are those claims justified? That’s a question each consumer, sommelier, or collector must answer for themselves. But asking the question is part of being an engaged wine drinker—and part of honoring the diversity of what Cabernet Sauvignon can be.

Why It Matters

The use of Petite Sirah in Cabernet might seem like a minor cellar decision. But in the broader context of modern winemaking, it represents a choice: Are we crafting wines to reflect a place—or to meet a profile?

When the goal is to achieve consistency at all costs, we drift into a territory where wines are built, not born. And while there is undoubtedly a place for plush, approachable styles, the danger lies in the erasure of nuance and identity. As blending becomes a tool for engineering sameness, we risk losing the very character that makes great Cabernet—from Howell Mountain to Happy Canyon—so compelling.

As a wine judge, writer, and sommelier, I’ve come to value wines that tell the truth—even when that truth is leaner, edgier, or more angular than expected. I’d rather taste the vineyard in a minor key than hear the same chorus on repeat.

Petite Sirah is not the villain. But its quiet role in muting Cabernet’s natural voice deserves more attention—and more conversation.

Final Sip

If you’ve opened a bottle of Cabernet lately and found it heavy, indistinct, or curiously lifeless, ask yourself: Is this wine speaking, or has its voice been replaced?

Wine doesn’t need to shout to be heard. Sometimes, all it needs is the courage to be itself.

Author’s Note

This piece reflects one sommelier’s perspective on how blending choices and stylistic decisions can shape the personality of a wine. It’s not a criticism of blending or of winemakers who pursue a consistent house style — rather, it’s a reflection on how expression, balance, and individuality can coexist within the craft of winemaking.

Exploring Spain in Seven Glasses: A Culinary Journey Through Wine & Food

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Our recent Spanish wine tasting was a journey across the country’s most celebrated regions, from the Atlantic coast to the rugged slate of Priorat and the sun-drenched hills of Andalucía. Each wine was paired with a thoughtfully chosen dish meant to showcase the best of both glass and plate. What follows is a recap of the wines, their origins, pairings, and my closing reflections on how they performed together.

1. Lagar de Fornelos Lagar de Cervera Albariño 2023

  • Region: Rías Baixas (Galicia, Northwest Spain)
  • Cost: ~$24
  • Pairing: Sardine Taco
  • Why it works: Albariño’s hallmark saline freshness and citrus zip cut through the oiliness of sardines, while the wine’s sea-spray minerality mirrored the briny character of the fish.

Closing Comment: A nice wine, but I would have preferred the lighter frizzante style with this taco. When in Portugal and drinking Alvarinho (the same grape), we were served whole sardines grilled and coated with salt—it was pure heaven. This pairing was okay, but the taco, while beautifully made, included a hot spice that fought against the wine.

2. Bodegas Avancia Old Vines Godello 2023

  • Region: Valdeorras (Galicia)
  • Cost: ~$28
  • Pairing: Lobster, Fennel & Ibérico Cheese Empanada
  • Why it works: Godello’s medium body and subtle creamy texture echoed the richness of lobster and cheese, while fennel’s anise lift found a bright counterpoint in the wine’s citrus and mineral tones.

Closing Comment: The pairing of lobster, fennel, and Ibérico cheese empanada with this Godello really hit the mark—it paired beautifully with the wine. An absolute winner! Godello also seems to be a current sommelier sensation: it has a lovely body, is food-friendly, and offers the ability to age gracefully.

3. Condado de Haza 20 Aldeas 2018 (Tempranillo)

  • Region: Ribera del Duero
  • Cost: ~$35
  • Pairing: Mushroom Bruschetta with Brie, Sage & Truffle Oil
  • Why it works: Ribera del Duero’s dark-fruited Tempranillo and firm tannins matched the earthy depth of mushrooms and truffle, while the creamy brie softened the wine’s structure.

Closing Comment: This Tempranillo comes from the Ribera del Duero region, where higher altitude and warmer daytime temperatures result in thicker-skinned grapes than those typically found in Rioja. The wine showed depth and structure, but the food pairing was only adequate. The enokitake mushrooms—with their delicate flavor and thin texture—didn’t stand up to the wine’s intensity. A firmer, earthier mushroom such as cremini would have provided the substance needed to complement the Tempranillo’s body, structure, and acidity.

4. Familia Torres ‘Perpetual’ 2020

  • Region: Priorat (Catalonia)
  • Cost: ~$100
  • Pairing: Lamb Pop
  • Why it works: Priorat’s concentrated Garnacha- and Cariñena-based blend, with its bold fruit and mineral backbone from llicorella slate soils, stood up beautifully to the richness of lamb.

Closing Comment: This wine from Priorat, where vines struggle to survive in the harsh slate soils, was absolutely outstanding—the darling of the night and the priciest offering, clocking in at over $100. A blend of Carignan and Grenache, it was silky, juicy, and luscious. While lamb chops were a good pairing in theory, the heavy hand with rosemary and other spices was somewhat off-putting. The wine would have sung more purely with just a dash of salt, a crack of pepper, and a gentle rub of fresh garlic.

5. La Rioja Alta Viña Ardanza Reserva 2019

  • Region: Rioja (Haro, Rioja Alta)
  • Cost: ~$48
  • Pairing: Aged Manchego Cheese with Spanish Olives
  • Why it works: Classic Rioja Reserva, with dried cherry, tobacco, and spicy American oak, was lifted by the salty tang of olives and the nutty sharpness of Manchego.

Closing Comment: The wine was intensely aromatic, with lifted floral notes rising from the glass alongside Rioja’s hallmark red fruit and spice. Elegant and classic, it showed why Ardanza has such a loyal following. I will note that we used 12-month aged Manchego, which imparted a fantastic nutty aroma and a drier texture than your typical 3- to 6-month aged cheese. The Manchego and olives made for a pleasant pairing, though the wine’s perfume and layered complexity could easily have carried the spotlight on their own.

6. Bodegas Muga Rioja Rosado 2024

  • Region: Rioja (Haro, Rioja Alta)
  • Cost: ~$18
  • Pairing: Shrimp Ceviche
  • Why it works: Fresh, pale rosado with citrus and berry notes mirrored the brightness of ceviche, while the wine’s crisp acidity balanced the lime-driven marinade.

Closing Comment: The Muga Rosado was bright, delicate, and refreshing, with subtle notes of citrus and red berries that made it a crowd-pleaser. The shrimp ceviche paired well overall, as the freshness of the wine complemented the lime and seafood. That said, the high acidity of the ceviche’s marinade nearly matched the wine one-for-one—bordering on a clash rather than a balance. On its own, the wine showed purity and charm, making it an excellent summer sipper.

7. Pedro Ximénez (PX) Sherry ‘1927 Solera’ by Bodegas Alvear

  • Region: Montilla-Moriles (Andalucía)
  • Cost: ~$35 (375ml)
  • Pairing: Vanilla Ice Cream drizzled with ½ oz. PX Sherry
  • Why it works: Intensely sweet and unctuous, PX sherry bursts with flavors of figs, dates, molasses, and espresso. Poured over vanilla ice cream, it becomes a luxurious dessert—warm, dark caramel richness meeting cool, creamy purity.

Closing Comment: This pairing was pure indulgence. The vanilla ice cream provided the perfect neutral canvas for PX sherry’s deep, luscious flavors of fig, raisin, and caramel. A small half-ounce pour was all that was needed to elevate the dessert into something both elegant and memorable. This was a wonderful reminder that dessert wines, when used thoughtfully, can create show-stopping finales without being overwhelming.

Closing Thoughts

Spain’s wines offer both breadth and depth—from the crisp Atlantic freshness of Albariño to the Mediterranean power of Priorat and the unctuous sweetness of PX sherry. Each of these bottles reflected its place of origin while sparking conversation around the table. Some pairings soared, others taught us what might work better next time, but together they underscored the magic of exploring wine and food as companions. This tasting was not just about the wines themselves, but about discovery, dialogue, and savoring the journey through Spain one glass at a time.

Exploring Chablis Grands Crus: A Masterclass Overview

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The Lake Tahoe chapter has elevated member education with a series of ambitious masterclasses—2010 Bordeaux by Left Bank appellation; the wines of R. López de Heredia; a cross-vintage Bordeaux comparison (2000, 2010, 2020); a curated flight from Wine Spectator’s 2024 Top 100 with pairings; and, most recently, a focused tasting of the seven Grands Crus of Chablis.

Hosted by Julie and Craig Rauchle at their home overlooking Lake Tahoe, the August program was presented by Claire Torbeck, DipWSET, Certified Sommelier, and Chapter Wine Director. The Grand Cru wines took time to source—several were acquired directly from France—and we were fortunate to present all 2022s across the seven climats (Les Clos, Vaudésir, Valmur, Les Preuses, Bougros, Blanchot, Grenouilles), which together form the single Chablis Grand Cru AOC.

We opened with a two-glass warm-up to frame style vs. site. Volunteers Craig Rauchle and Wally Binder shared observations using a custom tasting sheet designed to separate winemaking style levers (malolactic fermentation, lees stirring, and new oak) from site cues (acid line, salinity, and limestone texture).

  • Wine 1: Rombauer Chardonnay (California)—our example of a crafted, consistent style, shaped by full MLF, barrel fermentation/aging, lees stirring, and generous new oak, yielding the familiar buttery, toasty profile across vintages.
  • Wine 2: Domaine Pinson, Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume—a site-driven contrast from a cool climate and Kimmeridgian limestone (marl rich in fossilized seashells), with restrained winemaking and naturally high acidity letting the vineyard speak.

Armed with that “map,” the group tasted through the seven Chablis Grand Cru climats, exploring how aspect, contour, and limestone depth channel fruit profile, line, and length. Set on the right-bank slope above the Serein River, the concentration of Kimmeridgian marl and minimalistic élevage combined to spotlight tension, salinity, and crystalline precision—classic Chablis signatures that distinguish these wines from richer, oak-forward styles.

We concluded with a lakeside buffet curated by Julie Rauchle, whose pairings—saline, citrus, and lightly creamy elements—echoed the wines’ structure. A final glass of 2021 Domaine Pinson Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume offered a graceful bridge from Grand Cru power to Premier Cru finesse—an elegant coda to a rigorous and delicious masterclass.

Learning Outcomes (what members took away)

  • Confidently explain style vs. site using clear levers (MLF/lees/oak) and cues (acid/salinity/chalky texture).
  • Name the seven Grand Cru climats and understand that they comprise the single Chablis Grand Cru AOC.
  • Describe how Kimmeridgian limestone and cool climate shape Chablis: high acidity, mineral line, and length.
  • Articulate why Chablis Grands Crus differ from oak-driven styles like classic California Chardonnay.

As the chapter’s Wine Director, Claire Torbeck, DipWSET, Certified Sommelier, conceived, curated, and presented all of the masterclasses noted above—including 2010 Left Bank Bordeaux, R. López de Heredia, the 2000/2010/2020 Bordeaux comparison, the 2024 Top 100 tasting with pairings, and the Seven Grands Crus of Chablis. From designing curricula and tasting frameworks to sourcing allocations and leading the sessions, Claire oversees the program end-to-end and will continue to develop rigorous, engaging masterclasses for members of the IWFS Lake Tahoe.

The Rise of High ABV Wines: A Challenge for Napa Valley

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In the midst of a global shift toward moderation in alcohol consumption, it’s hard not to raise an eyebrow at the persistence of 15.5% ABV wines — particularly from regions like Napa Valley. As consumers increasingly seek balance, freshness, and food-friendly wines, one wonders: Has Napa missed the memo?

“Elegance isn’t weakness; it’s refinement. And that may just be Napa’s next great challenge.”

There was a time when Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa struck a beautiful balance — supple, expressive, and food-compatible. Today, many bottlings surge past 15% alcohol, delivering power, yes — but also a palate burn that lingers long after the last sip. Try pairing that with a classic roast or even a modest charcuterie board, and the match often falls apart. At a recent visit, several producers spoke proudly of crafting powerful, extracted wines aligned to critical scoring systems — still chasing ratings.

So, why the stubborn trend toward elevated alcohol?

It’s partly historical. Napa’s success in the 1990s and early 2000s was built on boldness — ripe fruit, generous oak, and big scores. Critics rewarded volume and weight. But that style, while once fashionable, feels out of sync with the current wine climate — both literally and figuratively.

Climate change hasn’t helped. Warmer seasons push sugar accumulation ahead of phenolic development. Winemakers either harvest early and risk green flavors, or wait and face wines that spiral past 15.5% ABV. Without thoughtful viticulture — canopy adjustments, rootstock selection, maybe even vineyard relocation — the default path is often more alcohol.

“High alcohol isn’t just a number — it’s a sensory force that can overshadow nuance, dull acidity, and exhaust the palate.”

And yet, around the world, we see producers adapting. Burgundy’s elegance remains intact through strategic vineyard management. Champagne producers manage ripeness while preserving freshness. Even in historically warm regions like Priorat, stylistic shifts are underway toward lift and restraint.

To be fair, Napa is not static. Some producers are shifting. We see lighter expressions emerging from mountain AVAs and cooler pockets like Coombsville. But as long as high-alcohol styles are rewarded by critics and expected by collectors, many wineries remain locked into that identity.

In today’s wine culture — where sustainability, health, and food pairing matter more than ever — there’s a growing place for wines that speak softly rather than shout.

More concerning than the sheer alcohol percentage is the imbalance it creates in the glass. Alcohol is inherently sweet, and when combined with ripe fruit or residual sugar, the perception of sweetness intensifies — even in ostensibly dry wines. To compensate, many producers lean into heavier oak usage, which can impart bitterness when layered over high alcohol and dense fruit. Instead of harmony, the wine can feel fragmented — with sweetness, bitterness, and warmth competing for dominance, while acidity, the lifeline of structure and refreshment, gets lost in the mix.

“Balance doesn’t mean less — it means more of what matters: freshness, structure, and soul.”

While Napa often favors an opulent, high-alcohol style in its Cabernet Sauvignon — showcasing ripe fruit, rich tannins, and generous oak — regions such as Burgundy and many cool-climate zones in California emphasize restraint and elegance, particularly in Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. These wines offer finesse, vibrancy, and nuance. They may not shout, but they sing.

Both styles have their place. Opulence appeals to consumers who seek intensity and richness. Restraint caters to those who prefer freshness and delicacy. Importantly, neither style is inherently superior; rather, they reflect differences in climate, vineyard management, winemaking philosophy, and market demand.

With climate change driving warmer vintages and consumers seeking moderation and balance, Napa has an opportunity — and a responsibility — to evolve. We’re already seeing signs of that. A new chapter of Napa winemaking could embrace diversity of style, with both opulent and restrained Cabernets thriving side by side.

Beyond the Rankings: A Fresh Lens on Wine Spectator’s Top 100 Wines of 2024

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Each year, Wine Spectator’s Top 100 captures the attention of both consumers and collectors. It’s a list that can simultaneously dazzle and overwhelm—packed with prestige cuvées, sleeper hits, and bottles that vanish from shelves before the ink dries on the rankings. But what happens when we remove the noise of hype and numbers, and instead taste these wines in context: with thoughtful pairings, side-by-side comparisons, and a spirit of curiosity?

That’s precisely what I set out to explore.

For this tasting, I selected eight wines from the 2024 Top 100 list, focusing on availability, diversity of style, and price point. My aim wasn’t to crown a winner, but to create a guided exploration for an engaged group of tasters—most of whom were serious enthusiasts rather than industry professionals. I paired each wine with a dish designed to highlight a structural or stylistic element: acidity, oak, fruit purity, tannin integration, or savory complexity. And rather than ranking wines, we discussed what each wine offered—and how it performed in the pairing.

Thematic Flights, Not Blind Judgments

Instead of organizing wines by region or varietal, I opted for thematic duos that encouraged deeper comparison. This also provided a framework for guests to think more like a sommelier or buyer—beyond label or price.

Flight 1: Beyond the Barrel (Fresh & Unoaked)

Whitehaven Sauvignon Blanc 2023(Marlborough, New Zealand) and Soalheiro Alvarinho 2023 (Vinho Verde, Portugal)

This opening flight explored vibrant, unoaked whites and sparked conversation around the “Anything But Chardonnay” drinker and the broader cultural shift toward leaner, more mineral-driven wines.

Both wines offered brilliant acidity and freshness, but the Soalheiro—texturally rounder and showing more phenolic grip with an enticing floral element—stood up better to the Upside-Down Garlic-Prawn with Lime pairing. The Whitehaven, while aromatically explosive and hailed as a restaurant’s choice for wines by the glass selection, for our purposes, it was more of a conversation wine—guests felt its precision didn’t quite meld with the cuisine.

Flight 2: Parallel Pinots – Oregon vs. Burgundy

Bethel Heights Estate Pinot Noir 2022 (Eola-Amity Hills, Willamette Valley, OR) and Louis Latour Château Corton Grancey Grand Cru 2022 (Côte de Beaune, Burgundy, France)

An eye-opening duo from parallel latitudes but world-apart price points. The Bethel Heights was taut and vibrant, with a steely core of acidity and red-fruited clarity. The Corton Grancey, a blend of four estate Grand Cru parcels aged in 35% new French oak, displayed elegance, mineral precision, and the quiet authority of a wine made to age.

These Pinot Noirs were paired with Duck Breast, Roasted Shiitake Mushrooms, and Raspberry Sauce. While both worked well, the Bethel Heights was seamless and ready to drink. The Corton, still a baby, showed immense promise—but needs time to fully unfurl.

Flight 3: Cult Classic vs. French Darling

Beaulieu Vineyard Georges de Latour Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 (Napa Valley, CA) and Domaine de la Janasse Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2022 (Southern Rhône, France)

This was a dynamic pairing of two powerhouses, each with strong identity and pedigree. The Janasse offered ripe red fruit, pepper, and garrigue with plush tannins and youthful energy. The BV Private Reserve Cabernet showed deep cassis, cedar, and graphite, but its tannins were still firm and in the early stages of integration.

The wines were served with Wild Boar Cannelloni with Tagine Spices, Feta, Braising Liquid, and Thumbelina Carrots. While both wines were still young, the Janasse held up against the weight and sweetness of the dish. The Cabernet, by contrast, became a slightly awkward pairing—as the North African spices in the tagine accentuated the roughness of its unintegrated tannins.

Flight 4: Exploring the B-Side of Italy

G.D. Vajra Barolo Albe 2020 (Piedmont, Italy) and Castello Romitorio Brunello di Montalcino 2019 (Tuscany, Italy)

This final flight offered a compelling look at two iconic Italian appellations through producers known for elegance over extraction. The G.D. Vajra Barolo Albe, with its lifted aromatics and linear frame, showed classic notes of tar, roses, and red fruit. The Romitorio Brunello brought richness, savory herb, and polished tannins—brilliantly composed, if a touch young.

Paired with Soft, Semi-Soft, and Hard Cheeses with Walnuts and Honey, the wines performed admirably, though the food pairing, for the grand finale, could have been more spectacular. While the cheeses and accompaniments were solid, they didn’t elevate the wines as effectively as hoped.

Conclusion: A List Reimagined

Wine Spectator’s Top 100 often arrives with a flourish—scores, scarcity, and a rush to secure bottles before they vanish. But tasting these wines outside the framework of rankings revealed something more meaningful: their ability to connect people, to illuminate place, and to surprise.

While the Wine Spectator Top 100 is published annually as a guide for buyers, I often hear comments that the ratings depend upon how many advertising dollars are spent by the awarded wineries. Or questions like: How can an $18 wine compete with a $200 bottle? The Spectator’s editors claim their selections are based on a blend of:

  • Quality: Based on the 100-point scale
  • Value: The wine’s price vs. quality
  • Availability: Number of cases produced
  • X-Factor: The wine’s story, uniqueness, or significance

Yet, all of these leave ample room for subjectivity—and potential bias. Wine Spectator is not the only publication marketing scores and reviews to help sell wine, but that is part of what they do. Readers should remember that different publications and critics have strengths in particular regions or or have style preferences, but not necessarily in all.

It had been many years since I last attended a Top 100 tasting. I’ll admit—I was pleasantly surprised. While the eight wines we sampled represent only a small slice of the full list, I came away with a renewed respect for the thoughtfulness behind the selections. I gained a clearer sense of the stylistic range being celebrated—something that will only make me a more informed buyer and thoughtful taster. And the food pairings? They offered a welcoming entry point for everyone in the room. After all, we may not all be professional tasters, but we’re all experts at eating.

Some wines dazzled immediately. Others whispered their virtues slowly, unfolding in the glass or shifting with food. A few weren’t ready to meet the moment—not because they lacked quality, but because great wine isn’t always on our timeline. When we move beyond the numbers and expectations, we’re left with what matters most: context, conversation, and discovery.

In this tasting, the highest-scoring wines weren’t always the most memorable. Instead, the wines that provoked the most discussion, sparked curiosity, or transformed with a dish were the ones that lingered in our minds. And isn’t that what great wine should do?

The Evolution of Rioja Wine: Tradition Meets Innovation

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Spain’s wine industry has undergone significant transformation, evolving from a land dominated by blended wines to one increasingly focused on single-vineyard expressions. While traditional Rioja has long been defined by its aging classifications—Crianza, Reserva, and Gran Reserva—some producers are carving a different path. Among them, R. Lopez de Heredia Viña Tondonia stands as a beacon of tradition, offering single-vineyard wines while maintaining the prestigious DOCa designation.

Rioja’s climate is unique within Spain. Unlike much of the country, which is dominated by Mediterranean warmth, Rioja benefits from a continental climate, bringing cooler temperatures and increased rainfall. This allows grapes to develop bright acidity, a hallmark of the region’s wines. The towering Cantabrian Mountains play a crucial role in defining Rioja’s terroir, trapping moisture and preventing hot Mediterranean influences from overwhelming the vineyards.

Rioja is divided into three subregions:

  • Rioja Alta (near Haro) – High altitude, producing wines with great acidity.
  • Rioja Alavesa – Slightly lower in elevation and a bit wetter.
  • Rioja Oriental – Warmer, with more Mediterranean influence, resulting in riper fruit and softer acidity.

Haro, the epicenter of Rioja’s wine culture, is home to some of Spain’s most iconic wineries, including Muga, CVNE, La Rioja Alta, and, of course, R. Lopez de Heredia. These wineries cluster in the historic Barrio de la Estación, where wines were historically shipped by rail to the rest of Spain and beyond. The town’s significance in Rioja winemaking history is unparalleled, housing some of the most renowned producers who have shaped the region’s legacy. A joy to visit!

Founded in the late 1800s, R. Lopez de Heredia has steadfastly adhered to time-honored winemaking techniques. Their estate includes the revered Viña Tondonia vineyard, a 100-hectare (250-acre) site uniquely positioned along the Ebro River. The river encircles the vineyard like a moat, providing natural protection and enhancing its microclimate. The name “Tondonia” itself means “round,” reflecting this natural geographical feature.

Unlike many modern Rioja producers who embrace stainless steel fermentation and new French oak, Lopez de Heredia remains committed to traditional methods:

  • Natural Fermentation – Utilizing indigenous yeasts present on the grapes and in the winery.
  • Aging in Old Barrels – In-house cooperage ensures quality control, and extended barrel aging imparts complex oxidative notes.
  • Use of Vine Clippings in Fermentation – Similar to Burgundian whole-cluster fermentation, this practice enhances tannic structure and depth while promoting the presence of natural yeasts in the fermentation process.

While Rioja is best known for its reds, the region also produces remarkable white wines. Lopez de Heredia’s Viña Tondonia Blanco is an extraordinary example, undergoing extended aging to develop rich, nutty, oxidative characteristics akin to Vin Jaune from Jura, traditional Sherry, and aged White Burgundy. Stored in the winery’s special cellar, bottles of each vintage are preserved, showcasing the longevity and evolution of these unique wines.

The winery’s commitment to sustainability is evident throughout their viticulture and winemaking practices:

  • No chemical treatments – They employ cover crops, composting, and manual vineyard work to maintain soil health.
  • Dry farming – Encourages deep root growth, ensuring resilience in drought conditions.
  • Minimal sulfur use – Their wines contain only 50 mg/L of SO2, significantly lower than the EU’s 200 mg/L limit.
  • Spiders as natural pest control – Instead of using chemical pesticides, they allow spiders to thrive in their cellars, reducing unwanted insects.
  • Aging Cellars with Natural Humidity and Temperature Control – Built in the late 1800s, their facilities are designed to naturally regulate conditions for optimal aging.
  • In-House Cooperage – Maintaining their own barrels ensures quality control and minimizes the need for external resources.
  • Lopez de Heredia does not release a Gran Reserva every vintage; only the finest years merit this designation. Among the most legendary vintages is the 1964 Gran Reserva, often hailed as one of the greatest wines of the 20th century. Tasting a 39-year-old bottle of this vintage was a pivotal moment in my personal wine journey—though at the time, I had no idea of its historical significance!

While Lopez de Heredia champions traditional Rioja, modern producers have embraced technological advancements, creating fresher, fruit-forward wines. Examples include:

  • Crianza Wines – Such as those from CVNE, Viña Real, and Muga, which use shorter aging and newer oak to highlight bright fruit flavors.
  • Use of Stainless Steel – Enhancing freshness and preserving varietal purity.
  • French Oak Aging – Many producers opt for French oak to appeal to international palates.

R. Lopez de Heredia Viña Tondonia exemplifies the power of tradition in an evolving wine landscape. Their commitment to time-honored techniques, single-vineyard expressions, and sustainable practices ensures that each bottle tells a story of Rioja’s rich history. Whether comparing their wines to modern counterparts or simply enjoying their beautifully aged releases, one thing is certain: Lopez de Heredia’s wines stand as a testament to the enduring legacy of Rioja.

Have you had the opportunity to taste R. Lopez de Heredia wine? I was able to visit the winery in September during crush to learn first-hand about this historic producer. The restrained alcohol level and the clarity and silky texture that extended aging creates in the wine is amazing. I encourage you to share your thoughts and experiences in the comments below!

Discovering Hidden Gems in the Wine World

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As I began my Diploma in Wine journey, I joined a tasting group to expand my knowledge. I often found myself discreetly jotting down the names of wines others recommended or spoke about with enthusiasm. Many of these wines were completely unfamiliar to me—a humbling reminder of the sheer vastness of the wine world. It’s hardly surprising, considering there are over 4,200 bonded wineries in California and more than 90,000 worldwide.

Searching for these recommended bottles was a source of frustration, as the majority were not available locally and often not available online. Living in California, I soon realized that while local distributors carry an impressive selection of California wines, a significant percentage of imported wine enters the U.S. via the East Coast and doesn’t always make its way to our golden state. I knew I would have to put in some serious effort to explore different wine shops and distributors for access.

Fortunately, the Bay Area offers many shops and importers that pride themselves on providing quality and diversity in wine. Kermit Lynch in Berkeley (https://kermitlynch.com/) and K&L Wine Merchants (https://www.klwines.com/) are two such stores/importers. The Rare Wine Company (https://www.rarewineco.com/) is also a gem, with extremely knowledgeable and helpful staff. Of course, there are many other establishments with strong portfolios and sound advice. During my Diploma journey, these players were instrumental in helping me source wines I needed to access and experience.

I’ll admit it: I have since gotten lazy and fallen into the rut of purchasing the same wines I know I will enjoy and have easy access to. Had I lost my spirit of adventure? Then, in October, I spent three weeks visiting wineries and meeting winemakers in Spain and Portugal. If ever you need to rekindle your zest for discovery, driving through vineyards at harvest will do it. The magical aromas of freshly picked grapes being crushed at the winery, the stunning scenery, the historic towns and buildings, and the traditions shared while tasting across their portfolios were a gift for all the senses. So many wines, so little time.

I recently came across a post where a site administrator asked readers to share an interesting wine they enjoyed in 2024. The bottles didn’t have to be rare or expensive, just the wines that brought the most joy. Pictures were encouraged. The following is a small selection of the wines posted:

  • Turley Zinfandel
  • Prima Donna Tannat
  • Chave Saint-Joseph
  • Flaccianello Della Pieve
  • Chappellet Cabernet Sauvignon
  • Marqués de Murrieta Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial
  • Rinaldi Barolo
  • Vega-Sicilia Único

(Full disclosure: this list comes from a site where most participants work in the wine industry and have access to wines I generally cannot afford to experience. However, these eight wines represent five countries (USA, Uruguay, France, Italy, Spain) and showcase a diversity of grape varieties. While “the moment” can often elevate your experience with a wine, all of these are solid offerings and far less expensive than most  California cult wines.)

My joyful wine of 2024: Clos Mogador Manyetes from the Priorat region of Spain. I tasted it with the winemaker, René Barbier, at the winery in Gratallops. René is passionate about his craft, humble, and open-minded, drawing on knowledge gained over many vintages and the wisdom of the land to create beautiful wines. This wine, 100% Carignan, is a blockbuster and was a definite favorite. To learn more about Clos Mogador, visit their website at: http://www.closmogador.com/index.asp?idioma=EN.

As we welcome 2025, let’s make a resolution to broaden our wine horizons and make time and put in the effort to source and taste interesting benchmark wines of the world.

Cheers to 2025…

Amador County Commercial Wine Competition 2024 results…

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It’s great to judge these AVA type competitions as it gives a good snapshot of the producers and how they stack up against their fellow wineries. The competition is ‘blind’ (meaning the judges have no idea of the winery that produced the wine in the glass). Each wine is identified by a number and scored on the merits of what is tasted in the glass. However, we do know the ‘category’ such as Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, or Other White Blends, for example.

Our panel consisted of a seasoned winemaker (with a Bachelor’s degree in Enology – the science of winemaking), an acclaimed wine writer and author, and me (I hold the DipWSET certification, am a Certified Sommelier, and an experienced wine judge). We worked together seamlessly and we each came away with some nuggets of wisdom from each other. There is always an ‘A-HA’ moment…

The night before the competition, Casino Mine Ranch Winery hosted the judges for a salad and pizza dinner with an assortment of freshly baked pizzas prepared in their amazing woodburning pizza oven. They were delicious and a wonderful pairing with their line-up of tasty wines. (Note: Casino Mine Ranch also had wines entered in the competition, but they did not offer tastings of any of the entries for this event.) Visit their website at: https://www.casinomineranch.com/visit-us/

Here is a picture of the beautiful new winery building and the sitting area overlooking the water at Camino Mine Ranch…

The results of the competition have not yet been posted to the Amador County website, but here is a link to an article that tells a bit about some of the winners of this year’s competition: https://www.ediblemontereybay.com/blog/in-praise-of-barbera-amador-wine-competition-winners/

FAIR RESULTS NOW POSTED: https://amadorcountyfair.com/2024-fair-results

I’d like to also give a ‘shout out’ to Rest, a Boutique Hotel, where we stayed the night before the competition. The rooms are lovely and very comfortable, we enjoyed the fire pit with a glass of wine before turning in for the night, and the staff was incredibly attentive to every detail. Breakfast the next morning was wonderful, and I cannot wait to return. Their website can be found here: https://www.hotelrest.net/

After the competition, we dined at Taste, an upscale restaurant a few doors down from Rest. It was a lovely surprise to find such quality in the Foothills, with creative dishes, and a wine list that included Foothill wines but also International selections. Their website can be found here: https://www.restauranttaste.com/

If you are looking for a get-a-way, Amador County has lots to offer, although truly their wines are the star of the show. Get out there and try some of these award winning wines!

Wine judging is serious business…

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It was a pleasure to judge at the 2024 El Dorado Commercial Wine Competition this past week. Our panel was comprised of a viticulturalist, a technical winemaker, a wine writer and me, an educator (DipWSET and Certified Sommelier) and the Wine Director (buyer) for several fraternal wine organizations. We worked well together and gave each wine our full attention and careful consideration, detailing the attributes present. We always requested a taste from a second bottle if there was any question about the condition of the wine as we wanted to ensure the wineries were able to put their best foot forward.

This competition is an ‘open’ one, which means that any winery from around the world is able to submit for consideration. Obviously, located in the foothills, the bulk of the entrants are in and around the foothills and general areas of California. The competition is blind which means the wine in the glass is only identified to the judge(s) by a number assigned to the entry. We have no idea of the winemaker or winery while evaluating.

The ‘Special Awards’ given (Best of Show White, Red, etc.) and the full report on all awards can be found by clicking the link below:

https://eldoradocountyfair.org/commercial-wine.html

Support these local wineries by stopping by and letting them know you read about the wonderful awards they earned! As an added bonus, you might find something you can’t do without for your Easter celebration!